Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have pronounced au revoir to New York Fashion Week. The Proenza Schouler designers, together with associate Americans Rodarte and Monique Lhuillier, have changed their uncover to a Paris haute couture calendar, and joined their pre-season collection with their runway collection, to raise sales and to boost their general visibility.
The pierce isn’t risk-free. Many of their beginning New York supporters weren’t in a throng currently (Couture Week not being as de rigueur as ready-to-wear), and a French conform universe hasn’t always welcomed American upstarts with open arms. Insiders will remember Zac Posen’s cautionary tale. But if any New York tag can make a go of it in Paris, it’s Proenza Schouler. McCollough and Hernandez’s hip factor—the guys themselves and their clothes—has warranted them a aloft form here than many of their U.S. peers.
This morning, in a damp of a Lycée Jacques Decour’s shaggy cloister, they done good on that repute with a collection that showcased both a codes they’ve worked tough building over a final few years and a vast assisting of French craft. They started with ruffles, draping them asymmetrically opposite hook-and-eye corsets and down slight skirts. Boudoir elements reappeared after as leather harnesses over widen weave separates and brassieres peeking from a neckline of celebration dresses. Strapping sum and prosaic midriffs unprotected between restraint tops and hip-slung skirts combined a voluptuous clarity of deshabille kept in check by roughly prosaic obvious slingbacks. This collection was really slanted toward cocktail hour and later, though one of their many constrained propositions was a approach they interconnected strong-shouldered, nipped-waist, elongated jackets and a few floral jacquard coats with flaring edging trousers. Their girls will wish that look.