Lorenzo Serafini’s Philosophy collections are muse-driven. This season, he was looking during a lot of early ’80s images of Tina Chow, a model, valuables designer, and New York nightlife mould who was married to a restaurateur Michael Chow. Serafini responded to her tomboyish glamour, and interjection to her churned heritage—she was a daughter of a German father and a Japanese mom and grew adult in Ohio, of all places—the offhanded approach she blended Western and Eastern style.
Chow, who died from complications from AIDS during 41 in 1992, is a troubadour for a ages, prolonged referenced by designers. But she’s an good idol for this moment, as tensions between a U.S. and North Korea seem to be coming a tipping point. Serafini hasn’t been one for creation runway messages in a past; he designs celebration dresses and day garments with a witty spirit. But he had a summary today. The models came out for their culmination dressed all in white, while Boy George sang Culture Club’s “War Song” on a soundtrack: “War, fight is foolish and people are foolish and adore means zero in some bizarre quarters.”
The garments were loyal to a New Wave styles of Chow’s early ’80s heyday, with blouson shapes, paper-bag waists, and handkerchiefs tied facilely around a neck. Typically, Serafini is a dress man, though he done a convincing box for his jumpsuits here, as good as salopettes in string or leather. He also had a handful of good Japanese denim pieces with courteous touches, like a minidress with snaps that traced a side join and nautical ribbon cuffs. Nautical was one of a show’s leitmotifs, and he rubbed his stripes in a uninformed way, pleat floral-print dresses with them. A immature floral-print cheongsam ragged with obi-belted, high-waisted red pants synthesized his East-West theme; it was also a good outfit.