48 Hours in Paris with Proenza Schouler – The New York Times

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, a designers behind a conform tag Proenza Schouler, have flown a coop. When we accommodate before their show, it is in a tender petrify space in a 17th Arrondissement of Paris rather than in their SoHo studio in New York. Next to a Levi’s store and a stone’s chuck from Bloomingdales, their SoHo home bottom is quintessentially New York. And while their residence in Paris recalls their common uncover spaces — a galleries around New York’s catchy Chelsea — we can glance a Arc de Triomphe from a finish of a street. McCollough and Hernandez are not usually Americans — they’re bringing a tiny square of America to Paris, too.

This is Proenza Schouler’s initial uncover in Paris given Hernandez and McCollough founded a code in 2002. Hernandez, 39, and McCollough, 38, met while study during Parsons School of Design in New York, and have called that city home ever since. (They’ve shown in places as classically New York as a Whitney Museum, a Met Breuer and even a gutted bureau space on Wall Street.) Their artistic synergy is exceptional: They give quick-fire interviews in tandem, batting ideas behind and onward and finishing any other’s sentences. Talking by their collection, they any squeeze during identical pieces — a dress in what appears to be jacquard, though is indeed edging connected to crepe; a feather-embroidered skirt; a soft cubic mink bag; a low, heavily beaded siphon inspired, they say, by a ones combined by Roger Vivier for Dior in a 1960s. “They kind of make a crazy chime when we put them on,” says McCollough; Hernandez obligingly shakes a shoe.

Slide Show

Behind a Scenes with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

CreditHugues Laurent

Why Paris, and because now? One answer is a imminent launch of their initial incense with a French cosmetics association L’Oréal, that is slated for early subsequent year — and that they wish will flog Proenza Schouler into another turn of tellurian recognition. Maybe a tentative Paris-based redolence launch is a bit too apparent (read: commercial) a proclivity for display on a other side of a Atlantic — during slightest for a engineer to admit. Nevertheless, a twin concede that their near-constant trans-Atlantic invert over a past dual years to labour a smell (which is still underneath wraps) authorised them to cruise Paris as a place to uncover their collection. That was compounded progressing this year by an invitation from a Chambre Syndicale, a ruling physique of Paris haute couture week, to benefaction as partial of a central calendar.

More fundamentally, with this show, a designers are perplexing to plea conform conventions — namely scheduling. Ready-to-wear designers routinely uncover tumble garments in Feb and open garments in September, and a garments arrive in stores roughly 6 months later. But Proenza Schouler is presenting a spring/summer 2018 ready-to-wear collection during a fall/winter 2017 haute couture season. (Though a code isn’t haute couture, a designers are holding advantage of a fact a members of a press are in Paris to attend a couture shows.)


McCollough and Hernandez outward of their venue, a Lycée Jacques-Decour, a operative high propagandize in a north of Paris, tighten to a Gare du Nord. The uncover venue is outside. “You travel in to this garden, a courtyard,” McCollough explained on Saturday afternoon. “A veranda that wraps around a whole thing. So it’s outward a show, though it’s covered. Hopefully it’s not raining.” It was — though it didn’t moderate spirits. Just a audience, a little.

Hugues Laurent

What it means on a unsentimental consumer turn is that these garments will be delivered progressing — attack stores around Nov — and will stay accessible for longer. The code will do divided with a judgment of precollections and will, from now on, emanate usually dual collections a year. “We’re consolidating pre and categorical into one collection,” says McCollough. “Precollection is when a bulk of a business is finished — so because not uncover a things we flow a heart and essence into?”


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Accordingly, this collection has been a labor of love: Rather than a 6 month lead time routinely afforded a spring/summer collection, a designers and their group pulled this uncover together in only four. (They also transplanted their whole Manhattan staff to a Parisian atelier, that is no tiny feat.) Bigger, perhaps, than a change of staff is a change in mind-set it represents for a designers. “We didn’t wish to indispensably have a couture feel,” McCollough says of a collection — couture being conform shorthand for anything embroidered, detailed or generally worked. Yet in this collection, there is a feathered coupler that took a week to make, while other pieces are combined from hand-embroidered flowers, crocheted badge and devoré velvet connected with chiffon. There’s lots of really French edging too — a tone palette is dominated by black, white and rosé beige, a tone of pinkish champagne. “There is always an component in each collection we do that’s some-more work or some-more festooned or put together,” McCollough allows, station in front of Proenza Schouler’s feathered jacket. “I mean, only entrance here…” He stops, and Hernandez picks up. “It’s unfit not to be shabby or desirous by entrance out here and meaningful you’re doing a uncover in Paris,” he says. “And what came before us, what we looked at, everybody that we’ve ever been desirous by. Growing up, historically, contemporary, all that’s engaging to us, happened here. So of march there’s that weight on you!” He smiles widely.

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